Wednesday, July 18, 2018

The Best Beginner's Paint Making Post

My students making their own paint.
I missed something. Something you will really want.

Two or three years ago when I was getting up to speed again for teaching my paint making class I missed the best introductory Medieval paint making post.

It is the Medieval Yorkist's Eulalia Piebakere's adventures in "Making Your Own Paints: A Beginner’s Guide".
Just what you need to get started making your own paints.

Paint making is fun. It's very sensual. Enjoy the subtle texture variety you feel as you squish the pigments into the binder. Be a kid again messing around while combining the parts. Try it, you'll like it.


Related Prior Posts:
10 Free On-line How To Make Paint Tutorial Links  

My Class Handout:
Playing With Period Pigments: A Make And Take Class--The Google Doc of my class handout minus its pictures.

Sunday, July 15, 2018

Illuminated Diapering

One of the easiest ways you can embellish a scroll is to add diapering. Diapering is the geometric checker-board pattern you see in illuminated manuscripts. It adds dramatic visual interest and fills the vacuum medieval art abhorred.


Link to image.


Link to image.

You may see them include gold leaf or without it. 










Link to image.
Link to image;



You may even find it decorating a grotesque animal or clothing article.







Diapering isn't difficult. You can make it simple or complex, whichever you want. The more complex patterns are easily created when worked in steps.

It's all based on a supporting grid, even if it's invisible. You first construct a grid then systematically insert your chosen colors or patterns.

Quality diapering is determined by evenly distributed grid lines. While you want an accurate grid I think extreme precision detracts from a medieval feel. You don't want it to be vector-graphic perfect.

With every diaper pattern, you begin with a grid. If you want you could generate one on Incomptech and trace it using your light-pad.

I use a ruler and a 4H pencil, and evenly measure each side of my chosen space and make marks. I then connect opposing dots. If you want your lines visible go over them with ink then erase your pencil lines.

This first diapering pattern was done into the late 14th century. It is the less complex one I'm sharing. It's also easily modified using other shapes and patterns. 

  1. You begin by selecting the area you want to embellish. 
  2. Paint it all over with your choice of light to medium color. Let this dry completely, even overnight. 
  3. Using your best method construct an even grid over the selected space. Making your gridlines black makes the colors stand out and hides straying paint. I use a black Pigma Micron pen. 
  4. Next, build your pattern. Here I place a small red square in each grid-square’s center. Use a color that contrasts with your underpainting color.
  5. Last using white gouache you make a small X over the intersection of each grid line.


diaper pattrn construction (2).jpg
Tip: If your selected space doesn’t have straight sides like in the clothing and grotesque I've pictured above, imagine the area is set within an external frame. Construct your grid straight with that frame. Your frame doesn't have to be straight with the support's edge; turn it however you wish. If you rotate your grid 45 degrees you'll create diamonds.  

My second pattern turns up later in the Gothic era. 
  1. Select the area you want to use for diapering. 
  2. Use your best method to construct an even grid over the selected space. As before, if it doesn’t have straight sides, imagine the area is set within a frame. Place the grid straight with that frame. 
  3. Apply gold to every other space, making a checker-board. 
  4. Paint red all the squares in one diagonal row. 
  5. Paint a second red diagonal row two spaces to the right. Repeat this throughout your selected area. 
  6. Perpendicular to the first red rows, paint one red diagonal row of squares. 
  7. Two spaces over paint a second red diagonal row. Repeat this throughout your selected area. 
  8. Select a group of four squares to paint blue. It will be just to the right of your intersecting red squares. 
  9. Just below the intersecting red squares, paint the four squares green. When both green and blue are completed, the pattern should alternate four-square groups of green and blue.
  10. Add small black plus lines to each of the blue and green squares. 
  11. Go over your grid lines in black again. AND In each red square use white to place an X and a tiny square. 
  12. Finally, place a tiny white dot over the black cross in the green and blue squares.

diaper pattrn construction2 (2).jpg

Tip: With the second method it's less confusing if you paint one color at a time. It's also easier the further you go in the process. Once you paint step 6 you'll see the design clearer. 

There are many ways to detail diapering; boxes, crosses, dots and diagonal lines are only a few. You're only limited by the space you have, your smallest brush, and your steady hand. 

After looking at countless medieval manuscripts with geometric diapering you'll have the “eye” to see the steps and layers building the whole. They become simple. You’ll also find your own methods to recreate them. 

Just create the grid. Fill sections with colors. Add tiny highlights. Repeat.



Bibliography

  • Alexander, Jonathan J. G. Medieval Illuminators and Their Methods of Work. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1992.
  • Asplund, Randy. “Making an Illuminated Cover Illustration” on Randy Asplund’s website. http://www.randyasplund.com/pages/article/tournpg/tipg6.html accessed 20 March 2016
  • Backhouse, Janet. The Illuminate Page. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1997.
  • Lehmann-Haupt, Hellmut ed. The Goettingen Model Book. Columbia: University of Missouri Press, 1972.
  • Lynskey, Marie. Illumination for Calligraphers: The Complete Guide for the Ambitious Calligrapher. Hong Kong: Harper Collins Publishers, 1990, pp 52-58.
  • Reynolds, Caleb. Caleb's A&S Blog "How-to Diaper a Scroll" accessed 21 May 2018

Wednesday, July 11, 2018

4 Arts And Sciences Activities At Calontir's Summer Coronation

Calontir's 2018 Summer Coronation is just around the corner. I truly hope you can come. It will be a grand time. Not only for the court's pomp but because this one's also a camping event. 

Camping coronations give you more time. More time to talk to friends, attend meetings, enjoy bardic presentations, eat the feast and take part in Arts & Sciences activities. 

This time I'm in charge of the A&S competitions. Create them, display them, find judges and voting tokens. I also get to find or create prizes for the winner(s). Fun things for you to do.
Largess Display

Here are the competitions you can enter. If you don't enter, come by and see who did... and what.
Largess Display: Any person or group's item(s) to gift the incoming reign. Items should be labeled with the giver(s) names. 
Peers Only Novice Again Competition: Entries should be a peer's first attemp at a craft they started within the last 365 days. They may be a work in progress with a large portion completed. Written documentation should be limited to 1 ppage, not counting photos and soucrces. Judging will be anonymous and based on generic intermediate level Kingdom criteria. Note: hide all identifying heraldry etc and names. 
Populace Choice: Entries should be a recreation of a Roman item made within it borders or territories. Entries should not also be offered in the other competition or display. Please provide a card with your name, what the item is, its location and approximate date of original.
But there's more. This one is for anyone that's made an SCA thing in the last year. Anyone. Anything.
Show and Tell: A throwback to younger days. Bring something you've made in the last year, completed or in progress, to show others in the circle and talk about your "thing". Easy, peasy. And social too. HL Natalya Alekseya Vasilova is the moderator.
There's something for everyone. I hope.

Related Prior Post:
 Largess: The Art Of Regifting

Sunday, July 8, 2018

Nobody Told Me...

My binder-portfolio with the early stuff I made.
Nobody tells this to you who are beginners. Beginners in any creative craft.I wish someone told me. 
If you do creative work, you get into it because you have good taste built within you. But there's a gap between starting to create and being good. 
it’s the just not that good but trying hard gap. It's potential. 
Your taste that got you into creating is still killer. Your taste is also why your efforts disappoint you. 
Some people never get past the gap. They quit. 
As a Laurel doing creative work many go through years knowing our work doesn’t have the special quality we want it to have. We all go through this in some form. I know I did.  
If you are just beginning or are in this gap, please, know its normal. And the most important thing you can do is more creating. Commit yourself to creating something every week. 
It is only by creating a huge body of work that you close and remove the gap. That your work becomes what your dreams imagine. And I took longer to figure this out than most. 
Know it’s gonna take awhile. Know it's normal. Be aware, keep creating and you'll fight your way through the gap. 
 Related External Links:
Ira GlassPosted on Fresh Air with Terry Gross, April 25, 2011

Related Prior Post:  

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

Celebrating Our Nation's Independence

Independence Day is a family day of barbeques and fireworks to celebrate the American freedom traditions. You'll find watermelon and hot dog eating competitions, sporting events, three-legged races, and water activities.
I display my American flag outside my door and listen to the neighbor's fireworks go off with loud bangs scaring my dogs. I think the most impressive fireworks are on television with blaring patriotic music. 
Independence Day is a patriotic holiday to honor the best of our United States of America. A time to give thanks for the freedom and liberties fought for by our earlier American generations.

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Why Are Vellum And Parchment So Expensive?

Vellum or parchment is made from animal skins processed until they are smooth and thin enough for light to pass through. It's been used for book-pages longer than has paper. 

You can find one of the oldest surviving books in the British Library, the Codex Sinaiticus. It was written on parchment in the fourth century and is over 1600 years old.

With that longevity and tradition, of course, SCA scribes want to work on animal skin. It's the ultimate scroll surface. But is it ever expensive.

When I can afford it, I usually buy my animal skin, from Talas. Their non-calligraphy types cost about $100 for a size suitable for a Peer's scroll. The calligrapher's quality costs even more. 

So, why are vellum and parchment so expensive? You can get an idea watching this Dirty Jobs YouTube video in which Mike Rowe makes vellum.




This is why I now use pergamenata for my scrolls. I even prefer it to smooth Bristol board, which I used back in the day before SCA scribes discovered perg.

Even with these costs, you'll want to use vellum or parchment sometime. It's a wonderful scribal experience. You'll be enthused and feel emotionally connected to medieval manuscript creation. 


Related Prior Post: 
Untangling Your Scribal Paper Purchasing Puzzle

Sunday, June 24, 2018

How-to Paint And Pen Straight Lines


M. Giraude's laurel scroll showing
interlinear and filigree lines.
For years I've fussed over painting straight lines on a scroll. I keep coming back to starting with a ruler and light pencil lines then painting over those lines. The problem is when you use light intensity paints like pink, white, or yellow you see the pencil line through the paint making them seem gray. Unappetizing.

Is there a better way to paint straight lines? 

Whether you're painting precise interlinear text lines or diapering on your scroll, there's a way you can get them done with success.

For scrolls, I use a ruler and a sharply pointed small round brush or a dip pen. The brush size depends on the line width you want.

I've used a bridge without success because it seemed too bulky, but maybe I should have bought a different one. I have better results with a ruler and a brush or dip pen. 

Here are two videos showing you line-work tips. The first is Steve Mitchell's. He's a professional designer, illustrator, and watercolor artist. Steve's video shows you several ways to create precise lines, both tiny and wide, using different techniques. The second is P. J. Holden's. He's a professional comic artist. I offer you this one because of its low angled camera view; it's almost on the paper. 




Steve Mitchell published his video Dec 8, 2014, on his YouTube channel, Mind of Water.








PJ Holden published his video Sep 28, 2016 on his YouTube channel by the same name.

Although I describe how to use a brush to do this, you can also use a pen to rule straight lines. Here's how.

Firmly prop your ruler at an angle with your hand, raising it high enough so only the brush's metal ferrule touches your straight-edge. Hold the brush's ferrule firmly against the ruler and have the bristle point just touching your support. Stroke the brush or pen steadily down the length of the straight edge making your line. 

Tip: use a light touch and go quickly, but more importantly don't look at the pen or brush's point. Look ahead at where you want it to go. This takes practice at first, but it's worth it. Looking at the pen's tip causes your line to ugly wiggle. If your line isn't exactly on the target you'll still have better results than if it's wiggly. 

Another tip is to use your arm's natural swing when you position your paper or pergamenata. If you're right-handed, it's easiest to paint a line diagonally from your lower left to the upper right. so move your support so your line goes in that general direction.  

When your scroll design calls for straight lines, you don't want to spoil it with distracting, wiggly lines. Practice running a few lines before adding them to your almost-finished scroll. You'll be knocking them out in no time.

Related Prior Post: 
Cheap Tweak: Using Gouache For Ink

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Free JSTOR For Your Use

I'm so excited. While I may be behind the times, I just found out I can now read free articles on JSTOR, Up to six a month.

I use to only be able to afford this by driving to my local university library where I paid for an economical annual membership. But it was worth it because it had JSTOR's digitized issues of academic journals. The only other way to afford this was to be a college student or professor. 

Sorry, I neglected to tell you, JSTOR is short for Journal Storage and is a digital library founded in 1995. It has improved since I last used it because it now includes books, primary sources and full-text searches of 2,000 journals, with older domain content free.

Try it. But use Google Scholar for your topic first to see what Medieval academic stuff turns up. Then access it using your monthly six free reads. See what interesting nerdy stuff you can learn. 


Related Prior Post: 
Wow! Scribal Research Has Changed

Sunday, June 17, 2018

Perplexing Pictures In Manuscripts 2

illumanu:
“ 14th century (1349-1351) Austria - Lilienfeld
Lilienfeld, Stiftsbibliothek
Cod. 151: Concordantiae caritatis
fol. 244v - Public service. (killing adulterers)
The man fornicating/being killed is wearing a Jewish cap, which, astonishingly,...
14th century (1349-1351) Austria - Lilienfeld 
Cod. 151: Concordantiae caritatis fol. 244v 
There is no reason you'd want to include a prejudicial illumination like this in SCA art. But why? What do you see?

This 14th-century illumination shows a man wearing a Jews hat having sex, then being mortally stabbed for it. 

But there's more that's perplexing. What's up with his pointy hat?

The tall unique hat you see in the illumination was worn by Jewish men before 1215. It was required after that in parts of Europe and the Islamic world. Today it's an easy way you can distinguish Jewish people in Medieval illuminations. 

It's not the hat alone that makes the picture perplexing. It's the illustrated deplorable behaviors, the rape, and the stabbing. 

The picture unites the two behaviors. In the Middle Ages repeatedly seeing similar illuminations helped prejudice the viewers against Jews, eventually driving them out of Europe. 


M. Dov with his new Laurel scroll.
Prejudicial pictures like this are only useful for educational purposes. There's a tiny possibility you might use it in costuming research and documentation because it shows a woman's hose tied up with a cord. But never in a scroll.

The scribe who created the Laurel scroll for M. David ben Benjamin included people in the same Jews' hats because Dov often wears one.  But the people wearing the hats are in a respectful "parade".

It's the behaviors, not the hat, that make this illumination inappropriate.



Related Prior Post:

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Resource Mining

One trick to learn when doing SCA research I call "Resource Mining". It is more fun than saying you can "get resources from the Bibliography" of the book or article you're reading. 
A bibliography is a list of books, articles, speeches, private records, diaries, websites, and other sources an author used when writing a paper. You may find it at the end of an article or non-fiction book. Sometimes it's called Works Cited or Works Consulted.
These lists are useful for the person who creates it because it gives credit to all the authors cited works. It also makes it easy for the enquiring readers to find the source used, but also to later researchers and curious people who are following similar paths. Think of bibliographies as time-saving and access keys to your SCA explorations.
Works cited in bibliographies may include more than books, articles, and websites. They may list professional journal article abstracts or summaries that are hard to find or expensive to acquire. The abstract or summary may have just enough information for your SCA project. Or give you a strong reason to seek out the full source.
Resource mining is even better when the bibliography is annotated. 

In an annotated bibliography each listing gives you its content and value, clues to whether you should read it. If you read a listing that describes the work as "ground-breaking" or otherwise amazing, it's a clue. It may give you an overview of the source, critique it, or comment on its usefulness, and reliability. It may comment on a listing's depth of detail, scope, and contribution to the work of others. More clues for you to explore.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

Largess: The Art Of Regifting

Largess Display "Back In The Day"
Calontir's summer Coronation is just around the corner. it's being hosted by the Barony of the Lonely Tower. I hope you'll come.
The event will include a largess display. "What's that?" you say. In short "largess" are gifts given generously. 
In the SCA largess is given by Monarchs or the Baronage to show their graciousness and hospitality. A peerage candidate might gift largess when you visit them at their vigil, too. Since these people are not independently wealthy their regal gifts come from their friends and you, the populace. Things you give for that purpose are "largess" too. 
There are two largess types: giftable and just plain elegant.  Both are better if they're handmade, showy or reek elegance. 

Anyone may give largess, but as a scribe or book artisan, I suggest these things to display and present. 
  • You might make: paint brush carrier or holder, beginner paint kit, notecards, bookmarks, blank border scroll, scroll carrier, notebooks, medallions, narrow-woven braid or cords. 
  • You could buy and give: Bristol board pads, pergamenata sets, period-like u-shaped scissors, and inkwells.

Including your handmade largess in a display is an excellent chance to show your quality work to a wide audience, including Royalty. With your name and group visible for all to see you gain name fame. 

With your largess gift possibly being given to anyone, there are things to consider and maybe avoid. Scented items give some people headaches or make them sneeze. And many among us have food or drink allergies. 

Largess items must be transported to events and packing space is limited. Baskets with handles or wooden chests need Tetris-player packing skill. Fragile and difficult handling items like filled beverage bottles may not arrive whole. 

Circlets, white or red belts, and chains that could be mistaken as reserved for a knight are too specific for many receivers. And candy and cookies might tempt the retinue.

Largess takes regifting to a new level. It's planned, crafted, organized, displayed and appreciated by the giver and the chain of receivers.

Related Prior Post: 

Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Prepping For Lilies War

My spare room being used for Lilies prep.

Every year I go to Calontir Lilies War and this year is no different. What's different is what I've realized from doing this annually.


It is important you purge your hygiene and health products each year. When I started paying attention to dates on the personal products I took to Lilies my home stash reduced by half. Also, products I grabbed in a hurry didn't occasionally smell or taste funny because I replaced them with new ones regularly. This annual purge wasn't something I did before thinking about it each year for Lilies.

An annual prep for a huge event like Lilies also gives you a push to have your camping garb repaired, washed and ironed all at the same time. As you do this it's easy to take stock in what's needed to update your wardrobe and accessories. I also make a "to do list" and work on those after the event, while I still have the Lilies thrill in my head and heart.

As I prep I also search for the gear I put down with out thinking about it after coming back from the last War I attended. And where's the hammer for my tent pegs? Oh yeah, I loaned it to someone and now I need to buy a new one.

Organizing your SCA horde just naturally happens as you prep for a large long event like Lilies. The stuff you remove makes you organize what you don't take as well as what you do. It also helps me make sure the things I've recreated are maintained. And the best is when you find that missing part you need but couldn't find. The one that makes something else work perfectly.

Annual events are important for more than what they do for the day, or ten, as  they happen. They help you organize and plan ahead both within and without your SCA life. They inspire you to do more, improve and keep going.

Related Prior Post:
Lilies War XXX Photo Array 
Photos of Lilies War Episode XXXI
10 Ways To Use Silica Gel Packets In Your SCA Stuff

Sunday, June 3, 2018

SCA Award V. Medieval Illuminated Art. What's the difference?

A scroll created to appear
like a two page spread.
Recently a beginning scribe asked me, "What's the difference between a scroll and a period manuscript?" I thought you might also want to know. 

When you receive an SCA award you're given a fancy commemorative document. We call these "scrolls", even though they're seldom rolled up. 

The biggest difference you'll find between a scroll and a medieval manuscript is their layout. SCA scrolls and historic manuscript pages both lay flat. But our scrolls are commonly designed to be single page works. Manuscript pages were planned in groups with two facing pages sometimes designed as one visual work. 

The second difference you find is their purpose. Illuminated texts were usually multipage reading materials. Religious, educational, literary, or historical books. Although some were rolled up prayer rolls, genealogies, and almanacs, that were used like personal infographics.


The oldest known illuminated charter.
1159, for Scottish King Malcolm IV  
SCA scrolls are our "legal document", giving the receiver rights to be in a Kingdom or Baronial order. Few Medieval legal documents were illuminated. Although the earliest illuminated legal document was an 1159 charter for Malcolm IV, King of Scotland, it isn't until late SCA period that dramatic illumination frequently decorates them.

So Medieval manuscript layout relates little to SCA customs. Your challenge, as a scribe, is to combine Medieval manuscript art with SCA required elements, such as the seals, signatures and personal details.

The SCA scroll process is different, too. 


Pre 13th century illuminated manuscript parts were worked on by several skilled people within one scriptorium. After that book artisans had their own business or worked for one that was near others in the lay book trade. 

Omitting the parchment maker, material preparer, and bookbinder because we commonly don't do similar skills; design, gilding, calligraphy, simple and complex illumination were done by separate people. In the SCA an original award is designed, gilded, calliged and painted by one person. Preprints or charters have one person design the award around the planned text, work up and outline the design but it is painted by many throughout the Kingdom.

Because scribes work alone we are encouraged to learn and master all the scribal skills. That takes time. Until then you share the tasks. With careful timing, you hand your beautiful work to someone you trust to do what you haven't learned yet. Or that person might show you how they do it. 


There are two forces that influence an SCA scroll, the historic and the current middle ages. Balancing their impact on a scroll's creation is a goal you seek to reach.

Related Prior Post:
The Scribal Yin Yang Puzzle

Wednesday, May 30, 2018

It's Clear: My New Way To Secure And Line Your Scroll

Previously I wrote about drawing calligraphy guidelines with a ruler and pencil. It's one of the two simplest ways you can rule up a scroll page. 

The other easy way is the one I'll tell you today. Use Incompetech.com's free plain graph paper generator and print off the size grid you want. 

When using the graph generator you have many options. Unless you want to do something different you want a plain graph pdf probably done in "inches" with the number of squares to the inch you choose. I select a 0.5 minimum border for my page and a grid line weight size of 0.50 points, but you can change those if you want.

Pergamenata over graph printed on
 2 transfer sheets all taped to plexiglass.
On higher quality paper you can use your printed graph for calligraphy practice, pen trials, or scroll layout plans. I print mine on two inkjet friendly transparency sheets. I tape them together to use with my light pad under my 11" x 14" pergamenata.

I have my double vinyl grids under my perg taped all around to plexiglass, an acrylic sheet often used in picture frames. I use light tack painters tape to adhere my scroll to the plastic "board". And I use plexiglass rather than masonite board so the light passes through and still keeps the perg stretched reducing cockling. I now have calligraphy gridlines I didn't have to draw and don't have to erase.

A few important tips, if you want your generated squares to print out accurately do not select "shrink to fit" on your printer program. Turn that off. If you don't you still get a grid but it won't be sized the as you plugged into Incompetech's generator. 

And if you print your grid onto plastic it is delicate until it is well and completely dry. It may even smudge coming out of the shoot.

This is one method. I know scribes who do this differently with great success. This works if the spacing between calligraphy lines is the same as the lines of writing or with one extra line for the letters' ascenders and descenders. If your interlinear space is different than those you will still need to draw calligraphy guidelines. 

Also using plexiglass rather than masonite lets you use your light pad to see your graph or designs. However, I am careful to limit large areas of very wet paint, because the plexiglass doesn't allow air to pass through.

The first time you print out your graph(s) may not be the quickest, but you only do that once for that size grid. You can reuse that one printed transparency pair many times if you don't damage it. So here's to no lines and no waiting.

Prior Related Post:

Sunday, May 27, 2018

Perplexing Pictures In Manuscripts


"Banquet With Courtesans In A Hostel"
 ca. 1455 - BNF, Paris
Does this fun picture remind you of an SCA post revel? Music, food, and merry-making, but in Medieval clothing. 

Look again. What's really going on?

You see the musician, but one guy's up-chucking and another's getting handsy with a woman. The title divulges they're cavorting with courtesans. 

I have a friend with a courtesan persona. Even so, I've never seen her act like this. Or any of my other SCA friends. At least not publicly.

The SCA is a fun way to observe, learn, and recreate the Middle Ages honorable ideals.  It's perplexing when you find pictures showing it otherwise.

When you find a manuscript picture like this be careful if you recreate it. What you do with it makes a difference. Consider who will see it and the format in which you place it. 

It might be a fun stand-alone picture for the right person, but I wouldn't recreate it for a competition. If I saw it in an event flier it would turn me off toward the event. And the negative things this miniature implies are definitely not appropriate for an SCA Monarch's legal document, a scroll. 

If you find a perplexing picture in a manuscript others will see it that way too. Let that be your cue to be cautious with how you use its recreation. 

Wednesday, May 23, 2018

10 Ways To Use Silica Gel Packets In Your SCA Stuff

Silica Gel Packets
You know those silica gel packets that you find in everything from new shoes to vitamins? They're there to suck up moisture and combat mold, corrosion, and product deterioration. Well, you can use them for SCA stuff too.

Ideally, we would keep our SCA stuff dry in a moisture-free tub, bag, closet or basement. But camping events get rained on, basements are damp, or
 we're in a rush when caring for things.

There are many uses for those little packets besides common razor blade saving. They're good for keeping SCA things rust or moisture free.



Although not unique, here's my ten ways you can use silica gel packets in the SCA. 

     

1. If you use cast iron pans or have period tools put silica packets in their storage container to prevent oxidation and rusting, especially when they're weather vulnerable. It’s disappointing to grab your favorite skillet or handmade tool and find it rusted. 

2. Put packets in your armor bag to retard rust and keep softer gear and leather dry. 

Packing with
silica gel packets.

3. When SCA camping include them in your bag with emergency mundane clothes and papers you store in your car. At camp put them in ziplock bags with your emergency socks and underwear. 

4. If you're a gardener place the packets with stored or heritage seeds to avert mold. 

5. Put them with your spices and dried fruits for the same reason. But don't use the blue silica gel with food. Use food grade silica gel packets and you should be fine. If it's blue it's tainted with a moisture indicating solution that's unsafe for food and not FDA approved. 

6. While oxygen absorbers are often used with food, silica gel packets may be used for dried meats you make like jerky or dog chews. It keeps them from turning rancid. 

7. Silica packets help dry out electronic devices. If you've gotten your phone  drenched first remove the battery and memory card. Then put the device in a container with several silica packs and leave overnight or longer. If you have uncooked rice this may work too. 

8. They are good to pack with garb in enclosed containers, like tubs or plastic bags. For anything prone to mildew like satchels or chairs you can put them in those oversize plastic bags with silica gel you've purchased. It isn't expensive. 

9. If you camp with your dog and want the kibble to stay dry, put it in a plastic tub and tape silica packets to the lid's underside. 

10. Your favorite period videotapes or your dated SCA wedding will last longer if you put a silica packet in its box. 

Beware there are dangers too. Kids may mistake packets for candy and choke on them. Dogs may eat them. You'll want to know the differences. 

Granular silicic acid looks like sand and is a chemical used, among other things, to remove wartsSilica gel beads are non-toxic or poisonous if eaten. But they're not meant for that.

The blue silica gel has added chemicals that make them toxic. Don't use them around food; they aren't FDA approved.

Although silica gel is a stable non-toxic, non-flammable compound it reacts with strong acids, strong bases and oxidizers. That's only important you're if you are a period researcher. It's safe as we commonly use it.

Silica compounds irritate the respiratory tract if inhaled or in your digestive tract when swallowed. Bead-dust may cause skin or eye irritation. These are why it generally comes in packets not buckets. So don't open the packets.


While SCAdians are thrifty with non-period things and make do when they can, reusing old silica packets may not work. They may be unfunctional because of previously doing their moisture-removing best. They're saturated. 

You can reactivate them by heating 2 hours at a low temperature in an oven. But I'm lazy. It's easier to buy new.

While these ever present packets are bothersome and may seem useless, used safely they will extend the life of your SCA stuff. 



External Related Blog:
Silica Gel Dessicant Blog